Chanel Spring-Summer 2025: A New Era Takes Flight at the Grand Palais

Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2025 runway show may have left the fashion world with more questions than answers, but one thing was certain: the storied maison is on the cusp of a bold new chapter. For the first time in four years, the Grand Palais—freshly restored to its luminous grandeur—served as the backdrop for a collection that married the brand’s iconic codes with a fresh sense of youthful energy and a playful spirit. The show, presented by Chanel's in-house Fashion Creation Studio in the absence of a permanent creative director, felt like a glorious homage to liberation, while hinting at the exciting possibilities for the brand’s future.

The Grand Palais, with its soaring glass ceiling and rich architectural history, was transformed into a vast space that felt both timeless and forward-looking. At the heart of the spectacle was an enormous birdcage, a direct nod to Chanel’s 1991 campaign with Vanessa Paradis, evoking both the theme of freedom and the legacy of Gabrielle Chanel, who once said, "I never wanted any other cage than the one I would build myself." As the models floated beneath the majestic roof, crisscrossing the runway in a symbolic display of flight, it was clear that this was a collection about liberation and a new, unencumbered spirit.

A Fusion of Legacy and Innovation

True to Chanel’s heritage, the collection opened with a parade of the brand's signature tweeds, impeccably crafted and updated for a new era. The classic jacket, the foundation of the brand’s identity, was reimagined with airy, fluid fabrics and a chic, youthful twist. Tailored aviator jackets and sleek trench coats, often adorned with multicolored feather prints or paired with trousers that billowed like soft clouds, set the tone for what was to come. There were still echoes of Chanel’s beloved classics, but they had been stripped of their stiff formality in favor of relaxed, movement-focused designs. The result was a refreshing sense of freedom and ease—a reflection of how the house is evolving while honoring its rich history.

But the collection wasn’t all about reverence. There was an undeniable sense of playfulness, as seen in the collection’s flirty, leg-baring skirts with front slits that caught the light as the models glided across the runway. Sheer chiffon capes floated behind them like delicate wings, while wide-leg trousers made of shimmering denim, adorned with sequins and fringed edges, injected an element of unexpected youthfulness. It was the kind of collection that spoke to a modern Chanel woman—someone who moves freely, effortlessly, and with a touch of defiance.

The Spirit of Flight

Feathers, of course, made their presence felt throughout the show. They adorned collars, skirts, and even jackets, their delicate beauty playing into the collection’s overarching theme of flight and lightness. These feathered accents, though undeniably beautiful, did at times verge on repetition, appearing in so many iterations that their impact began to dilute. But in the right moments, such as on a fluttering chiffon cape or a bird-embroidered dress, they felt like poetic symbols of the freedom Chanel is striving for in this new era.

The denim, though, was perhaps the most unexpected and daring element of the collection. The sequined and fringed denim pieces, while eye-catching, felt like an odd juxtaposition to the ethereal mood of the show. Their youthful energy clashed with the collection's otherwise airy sensibility, leaving one wondering if they were a nod to a younger, more casual audience or a misstep in an otherwise graceful collection. Regardless, the rest of the collection’s exploration of fluidity and femininity—the chiffon gowns, the tailored trousers, the whisper of feathers—more than made up for these moments of discord.

A Playful, Gender-Fluid Twist

As the show progressed, there was a noticeable shift in energy. The aesthetic, which began with structured, elegant silhouettes, gradually morphed into something freer and more youthful. The design team embraced a bohemian spirit, with soft, flowing silk sets in pastel shades of robin's egg blue, pale pink, and lemon yellow. These dresses, paired with crochet and lace, seemed tailor-made for the modern woman who seeks effortless beauty and comfort. But perhaps the most striking element of this playful spirit was the introduction of belly chains and midriff-baring styles—an overtly modern and slightly cheeky take on the traditionally conservative Chanel silhouette.

The show’s finale, however, was where the true spirit of Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection came to life. As the final model made her way down the runway, none other than Riley Keough appeared in a dramatic black chiffon ensemble, singing Prince’s “When Doves Cry” from a swing suspended above the runway. It was an electrifying moment, as the dove—a symbol of peace, love, and freedom—seemed to hover mid-flight, just as Chanel's future feels poised to take off. Keough, her voice soaring above the grandeur of the runway, embodied the essence of the collection: free-spirited, bold, and unapologetically modern.

Chanel’s Future: Poised for Something Bigger

Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2025 show was not just a tribute to the house’s history—it was a testament to its ability to evolve and embrace the future. While the in-house design team may still be navigating a period of transition, the collection felt like a definitive statement of intent: Chanel is ready for something new, something bolder. The house’s codes—the pearls, the camellias, the tweeds—are timeless, but this show was a reminder that there is always room to reinvent, to play, and to break free from the expectations that have historically defined the brand.

As Chanel continues its journey without a permanent creative director, the question of who will fill that seat remains. But one thing is clear: Chanel’s next chapter is not one of mere continuation, but of reinvention. The birdcage has been opened, and the maison is ready to soar.