Loewe Spring 2025: A Symphony of Circles, Flight, and Fantasy

Jonathan Anderson, Loewe’s visionary creative director, invited the fashion world into a state of awe at the Château de Vincennes in Paris for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Beneath the historic arches of the venue, Anderson’s mastery of form and his delicate interplay between the avant-garde and the accessible took center stage.

A single artwork, a Tracey Emin bird sculpture titled The Only Place You Came to Me Was in My Sleep (2017), perched gracefully in the minimalist show space. The bronze bird, frozen in a moment of poised anticipation, set the tone for the collection—imbued with freedom, transformation, and the allure of fleeting stillness.

Circular Motions: A Dance of Proportions

The show opened with a soft gasp: a crinoline dress in translucent organza with floral imprints, its structure visible through layers of gossamer fabric. Circles dominated the collection, both literally and figuratively, as Anderson played with the concept of repetition, balance, and evolution. From hoop skirts that moved with aerodynamic grace to cape-like leather jackets that flared at the waist as if captured mid-spin, the silhouettes exuded elegance in motion.

Anderson’s signature love of sculptural tailoring shone through in sequined mini-dresses with hems blooming like petals and tailored blazers that flared into exaggerated proportions. Ballet Runners and elongated Oxfords grounded these ethereal ensembles, merging grace with everyday wearability.

Nature’s Whisper: Feathers and Florals

Feathers emerged as a recurring motif, lending the collection a surreal edge. Feathered camisoles and trousers appeared almost weightless, their delicate textures offset by camouflage-inspired patterns. White feathers, hand-applied with mother-of-pearl accents, evoked the shimmer of dragon scales or ocean shells, blurring the lines between terrestrial and fantastical.

The natural theme continued in prints that referenced Impressionist florals, flowing freely across sheer silks and sarong-style trousers. A muted palette of blush, sage, and goldenrod underscored the organic harmony of the collection, with occasional bursts of cobalt and metallics injecting vibrancy.

Accessories: Modern Icons

Loewe’s accessories proved as covetable as ever. The trapezoidal Madrid bag made its debut, a subtle nod to the brand’s Spanish heritage, while the feather-light Puzzle bag returned in nappa leather iterations. The models’ oversized aviator sunglasses, worn upside-down, added a touch of irreverence, while lace-up flats and hybrid sneakers balanced whimsy with utility.

Cultural Reverberations

Anderson’s collection reverberated with echoes of history, art, and music. Feathered T-shirts featured trompe l’oeil depictions of Mozart, Bach, and Van Gogh—artworks and symphonies reimagined as wearable mementos. This cultural nod extended to the show’s circular setup, a visual metaphor for the cyclical nature of fashion and art, constantly revisiting and reinventing itself.

Radical Reduction: Noise Stripped Away

The collection’s true triumph lay in its restraint. “What happens when you strip all the noise away?” Anderson pondered in his show notes. In a season saturated with maximalist statements, Loewe’s focus on simplicity felt like a quiet revolution. Each piece stood as a testament to craft, form, and the power of thoughtful design.

A Decade of Distinction

As Anderson marked his 10th year at Loewe, the collection felt less like a retrospective and more like a proclamation of the brand’s future. It celebrated the house’s heritage while embracing a forward-looking aesthetic. With this symphony of textures, shapes, and cultural references, Anderson proved that even in a pared-down setting, his vision continues to soar—much like the poised bird that presided over the runway.