Pucci’s Portofino Dream: Camille Miceli’s Breezy Vision for Spring 2025

Camille Miceli’s latest chapter at Emilio Pucci unfolded high above the Ligurian coast, where sunlight dances off terracotta rooftops and the sea sighs against the cliffs. This spring, the brand’s jet-set fantasy anchored itself at La Cervara, a 14th-century abbey nestled in the hills of Portofino—a location as storied and layered as Pucci’s iconic prints. As the sun dipped behind the horizon, guests sat perched among manicured gardens and cloistered courtyards, watching as Miceli spun another spellbinding vision of la dolce vita, Pucci-style.

In her third year as creative director, Miceli continues to refresh Pucci’s codes with a breezy confidence. There’s a kinetic energy to her interpretation—less museum-piece, more movement. For Spring 2025, the collection zeroed in on Marmo, the hypnotic swirl motif that originally drew Pucci himself to the reflective pools of Capri’s Grotta Azzurra. Miceli calls it “the first print that seduced me,” and this season, it reappeared as a central force, rippling across tunics, palazzo pants, and ponchos, sometimes edged in metallic studs or meticulously hand-beaded in black and white to evoke the glimmer of seashells.

But this wasn’t just a print story. Miceli pushed silhouette and surface forward with refreshing clarity. Billowy, parachute-nylon tops floated like sea breezes, cinched with drawstrings and edged in curly, 3D appliqué embroidery that felt playful yet architectural. Fringed, tubular tassels—some patterned, some sheer—whispered in the wind from off-the-shoulder gowns and swirled skirts, lending the whole collection a sense of choreography, as if every garment had its own rhythm.

Then came the contrast: sheer second-skin tube dresses that clung like body art, bandeau minis styled with oversized shirts that draped like beach cover-ups, and tight asymmetric tunics that felt built for Riviera nights. These weren’t nostalgic retreads of Pucci’s past but a contemporary remix of vacation wear, filtered through Miceli’s distinct blend of Parisian polish and Italian sensuality. Kristen McMenamy and Naomi Campbell closed the show like twin goddesses—Kristen in a graphic black-and-white beaded gown, Naomi in a sequined column dress that shimmered like starlight on water.

Color, while still present, took on a new sophistication. Gone was the riot of rainbow brights Pucci is known for. In its place: a cool, focused palette of black, white, and seashell pink. If previous collections felt like poolside cocktails, this one was more a glass of chilled rosé at twilight—understated, elegant, and quietly luxurious. As Miceli put it, “Reality is so harsh—I think we need softness, tenderness, not aggression.” And that’s precisely what she delivered.

Miceli’s Pucci isn’t about escapism in the traditional sense—it’s about elevating ease. This is vacation wear for the woman who packs a book of poetry next to her SPF, who lives in movement, who dances barefoot at dusk. There’s a sense that everything is meant to feel lived-in and loved, not styled within an inch of its life. It's no wonder the Pucci woman, under Miceli's watch, feels more modern than ever. And if this collection is any sign of where Pucci’s Mediterranean odyssey is headed next, we suggest you start planning your own Italian getaway—fringe, swirl prints, and parachute tops very much in tow.