Simone Rocha SS25: A Daring Dance of Romance and Intrigue
Simone Rocha has once again captured the essence of avant-garde fashion, transporting us to the hallowed halls of The Old Bailey for her Spring/Summer 2025 runway show. Known for her ethereal designs and theatrical presentations, Rocha effortlessly blends the boundaries of femininity and masculinity, presenting a collection that is as romantic as it is provocative.
A Journey into the Macabre
This season, Rocha drew inspiration from the surreal works of Irish artist Genieve Figgis, particularly her 2013 painting *Lady with a Bird*. The vibrant yet haunting imagery laid the groundwork for Rocha’s narrative, intertwining themes of seduction, fear, and playful intrigue. With its Baroque undertones, the collection pulsated with a sense of danger, captivating audiences from the very first look.
As models graced the runway, they embodied the spirit of ballet dancers caught between performances, transitioning seamlessly between delicate and daring. The Old Bailey, with its marbled interiors, served as a fitting backdrop for this spectacle, creating an atmosphere that echoed Rocha’s exploration of the delicate interplay between control and chaos.
Flirting with Florals
The collection’s hallmark was its intricate use of carnations, a flower historically associated with romance yet often overlooked in floral arrangements. Rocha transformed this humble bloom into a symbol of art and rebellion, adorning dresses and accessories with cascading petals that told a story of their own. Models strutted down the runway holding bouquets and donning masks crafted from the very petals that adorned their garments, a visual nod to the duality of beauty and darkness.
Layer upon layer of sheer organza draped elegantly over structured silhouettes, while voluminous tutu skirts swayed with every movement. Rocha’s signature embellishments—crystals and intricate embroidery—sparkled under the dim lighting, adding a touch of opulence to the otherwise soft palette of blush, mint, and deep red.
The New Age of Denim
A striking addition to this collection was the introduction of denim, an unexpected yet delightful twist that showcased Rocha’s ability to innovate while staying true to her aesthetic. Crystal-encrusted jackets and tailored shorts presented a playful take on casual wear, proving that even the most relaxed pieces can exude elegance and flair. This merging of high fashion with street style reflects Rocha’s unique vision, elevating everyday materials to the realm of haute couture.
The collection also included oversized knitwear, meticulously designed to mirror the grace of ballet costumes. Asymmetrical cuts and layered fabrics created a fluid silhouette that emphasized both structure and softness, allowing for freedom of movement that resonated with the dancers’ inspirations.
A Celebration of Duality
Throughout the show, Rocha played with gender norms, presenting co-ed looks that blurred the lines between masculine and feminine. The runway featured dapper ensembles for men, including embellished trousers paired with sheer overlays and fitted jackets. Rocha’s interpretation of traditional menswear elements—like buttonholes adorned with blooms—redefined conventions, inviting a dialogue about identity and expression.
The collection concluded with a series of breathtaking evening gowns, where tulle met silk in a spectacular display of craftsmanship. Each piece was a testament to Rocha’s vision: luxurious yet accessible, delicate yet powerful. The grand finale, featuring models adorned in voluminous skirts that seemed to defy gravity, left the audience in awe, embodying the very essence of Rocha’s brand.
Accessorizing the Narrative
No Simone Rocha show is complete without statement accessories, and this season was no exception. The new iteration of her collaboration with Crocs introduced playful, jewel-encrusted footwear that embraced the “ugly-chic” aesthetic. Tulle handbags and floral barrettes promised to become instant hits, destined for social media virality.
As the final model exited, the echoes of Frankie Valli’s “Can’t Take My Eyes Off You” resonated through the hall, a fitting soundtrack for a collection that celebrates the art of performance and the beauty of imperfection.
Simone Rocha’s SS25 collection is not merely a presentation; it’s a multifaceted exploration of identity, artistry, and emotion. With a keen eye for detail and a penchant for storytelling, Rocha invites us into her world—a realm where danger dances with romance, and where every garment tells a tale. In a landscape often saturated with fleeting trends, Rocha’s vision stands timeless, a beautiful reminder that fashion is as much about feeling as it is about aesthetics.
