Vivienne Westwood Fall 2025: A Rebellion in Tailoring and Texture

·by Hannah O'Connor

Vivienne Westwood's Fall 2025 collection, crafted by Andreas Kronthaler, emerged as a vibrant testament to the brand's iconic, boundary-pushing spirit. Presented at the prestigious Pavillon Cambon in Paris, this show was not just a fashion collection but a visual narrative of rebellion, culture, and craftsmanship that fused history with the future.

The collection's centerpiece? The masterful play of tailoring. As always, Kronthaler's designs were unapologetically unconventional, expertly challenging the notion of what a traditional silhouette should be. The impeccable craftsmanship of English tailoring—meticulously cut suits, oversized blazers, and dramatically altered proportions—was paired with a vivid color palette that nodded to Westwood's punk past while signaling a new era of fashion. It was the perfect fusion of anarchic energy and tailored precision.

What truly stood out, though, was how Kronthaler embraced the essence of Englishness while breaking down its historical constructs. Harris Tweed and Scottish plaids were reimagined, with tailored pieces drawing from the most recognizable elements of British heritage, such as suiting and men’s fashion. However, these were far from simple references. The fabrics were transformed, morphed into garments that defied traditional gender norms and silenced the rigid rules of class-based dressing. A man’s suit was never just a man’s suit in Westwood’s world—it was a canvas for radical change.

In his interpretation of British masculinity, Kronthaler blurs lines—introducing asymmetry, unexpected fabric pairings, and vibrant accessories that elevated the everyday to the extraordinary. Super-long ties paired with sharply-cut suits gave a playful nod to the over-the-top aesthetic, while the subtle but striking presence of gender fluidity in the designs made one thing clear: fashion, in Kronthaler’s hands, is a tool for social dialogue.

This season marked a particularly significant moment for Vivienne Westwood, as it was the first time Kronthaler’s mainline designs and his own line came together, merging two distinct worlds under the same roof. The result? A seamless synthesis of luxurious tailoring and street-savvy cuts, where punk rock spirit met aristocratic refinement. From oversize vests to quirky streetwear hybrids, the collection was a visual symphony of contrasts—just as Vivienne herself would have wanted.

The ‘19’ in the show’s title wasn’t just a number, but a symbol of new beginnings. It reflected the energy of pushing boundaries, of reinventing and reimagining. This was a call to action, to “live loudly, love deeply, and wear your armor proudly,” as Kronthaler puts it.

The menswear component of the show was another bold proclamation. With the whispers of a future Milan menswear show in the air, Kronthaler’s designs were a reminder that the boundary between “men’s” and “women’s” fashion is one that no longer needs to exist. An ivory silk, collarless jacket on a man—paired with cropped pants, a pristine white shirt, and an Italian tricolor belt embroidered with “AK”—was an elegant wink at the possibilities of genderless fashion. Here was a man, not just dressed, but adorned in a layered narrative of Westwood’s legacy.

In a true Westwood tradition, there was no shortage of daring details: exaggerated boots, flowing gowns that evoked both regal grandeur and street-style grit, and accessories like chunky necklaces and oversized hats that complemented the rich textures and silhouettes of the clothing. Metallics, brocades, and military-inspired cuts were seamlessly incorporated into the collection, making for a season that was visually dynamic and layered with meaning.

Perhaps one of the most unexpected moments came in the form of eveningwear—a twisted-strap brocade minidress, and a daring carpet-cowl gown that brought to mind the fierce femininity of Westwood’s punk beginnings while adding a layer of sophistication that was entirely new. The designs played with asymmetry and unexpected proportions, almost as if they were challenging the traditional definition of “elegance.”

But what was most arresting about this collection wasn’t the visual impact—it was the message. The pieces spoke to freedom: the freedom to express yourself, the freedom to dress how you want, and the freedom to defy expectations. As Kronthaler explained backstage, “Vivienne taught me to love tailoring and knitwear, and that’s what’s always at the heart of this collection. Tailoring is an English invention. It gives you formality, like a framework that allows you to be free in your expression.”

From the sharp suits to the fluid gowns, from the genderless silhouettes to the playful twists on classic British style, the Vivienne Westwood Fall 2025 collection was a masterclass in deconstruction and reinvention. This wasn’t just fashion—it was an invitation to break free, to question norms, and to redefine elegance.

As the fashion world eagerly anticipates the future of Vivienne Westwood and Kronthaler’s continued collaboration, one thing is clear: this fall collection was more than just a show. It was a revolution. And it’s one that will undoubtedly inspire future generations of rebels, dreamers, and rule-breakers.