Saint Laurent Fall 2025: A Masterclass in Power, Shape, and Emotional Resonance

Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection marks another audacious step in Anthony Vaccarello’s ongoing reinterpretation of the iconic French house. It’s a collection that explores the multifaceted nature of femininity, balancing both starkly defined power and sensuous vulnerability with a deft, emotionally-charged hand. Presented on the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Vaccarello’s choice to close the fashion marathon left a lasting impression—a high-octane finish with a message of uncompromising strength, all wrapped in sleek, sculptural silhouettes.

The Shoulder as a Symbol of Power

At the heart of the collection is an almost theatrical emphasis on shape, particularly the exaggerated shoulder—a defining motif that reflects the enduring power-dressing codes of the 1980s. Each model, walking confidently on the oval-shaped onyx floor, seemed to channel the commanding presence of an empowered, modern woman. The sharp, angular shoulders of oversized blazers and voluminous coats stood in stark contrast to the softer textures of leather and satin, creating a harmonious tension between bold structure and fluidity.

Vaccarello doesn’t shy away from audacity. The exaggerated shoulder was not only a structural statement but also a visual exploration of the power dynamics in contemporary fashion. The sharpness of the cuts suggests authority, but there’s softness in the movement, a nod to the multifaceted, dynamic nature of today’s woman. This isn't just about looking powerful—it's about embodying strength with grace.

A Break from Excess: The Power of Simplicity

As striking as the shapes were, what truly set this collection apart was its minimalist approach to adornment. Gone were the usual embellishments. No extravagant beading or excessive detailing. Instead, the drama came from the structure, the interplay of fabrics, and the daring use of color. The palette for the season was bold—fuchsia, amethyst, emerald, ochre, and citrine, to name a few—each shade rendered in rich satin, smooth jersey, and technical fabrics that allowed the garments to move and stretch with ease.

"I wanted something clean, with no ornamentation," Vaccarello revealed backstage. His focus was purely on silhouette and form, pushing boundaries with a sense of freedom. The result? A collection that celebrates both the body and the fabric, the clothes shaping to the wearer rather than overwhelming them.

Reimagining Feminine Elegance: From Hard to Soft

Where the shoulder lines represent dominance, the long evening gowns presented a softer, more sensual side of Saint Laurent’s vision. The dramatic ball gowns that closed the show may have had all the grandeur of couture, but Vaccarello kept them grounded. Instead of the delicate, fairy-tale aesthetic one might expect, these dresses were worn with oversized sweaters, tough leather jackets, or even a lace corset—hinting at the fact that strength doesn’t have to come at the expense of femininity.

The voluminous skirts were full of movement, yet the pairing with structured elements like sharp blazers or layered leather jackets injected a sense of defiance into these otherwise romantic garments. It’s an intriguing combination of contradictions—softness mixed with strength, innocence paired with the promise of power.

Accessories as Subtle Statements

Vaccarello’s approach to accessories was just as precise and purposeful as his treatment of clothing. The jewelry was bold, with sculpted gold earrings making a statement without competing for attention. Footwear—slingbacks with curved talons—was equally assertive, offering a blend of elegance and raw power. But perhaps the most striking decision of all was the absence of bags. "I wanted to focus on the emotion of the clothes," Vaccarello explained, echoing the sentiment that in this collection, fashion is not about selling; it’s about feeling. And in that respect, this runway show was less a marketing exercise and more an artful exploration of the emotional power of clothing.

A Love Letter to YSL’s Legacy

This season’s Saint Laurent collection is not just a fashion statement; it's a deeply personal reflection on the legacy of the brand’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent. In a poignant moment backstage, Vaccarello reflected on the influence of the 1990s YSL haute couture collections—a time when the fashion world had written off the brand as “outdated.” That challenge became an opportunity to revisit and reframe the narrative, reclaiming the house's bold and iconic aesthetic with fresh vigor.

Just as the models strutted down the runway with their sharp shoulders and fierce elegance, there was an undercurrent of vulnerability—an acknowledgment that true power lies in the ability to be both strong and soft. This juxtaposition of opposing forces is what makes Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent so compelling. The collection is a love letter to both the house’s history and the modern woman’s complex identity, effortlessly blending strength, emotion, and beauty.

The Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2025 collection reminds us that fashion is not merely about trends or technicality. It’s about capturing the essence of who we are and who we aspire to be—bold, empowered, and unapologetically ourselves.

As the fashion world buzzes with excitement over this show, it’s clear that Vaccarello’s vision continues to define the next chapter of Saint Laurent. It’s a collection that doesn’t just speak to the aesthetic needs of today’s woman—it speaks to her soul.