Saint Laurent Spring 2025: Anthony Vaccarello’s Ode to Elegance and Power

When Anthony Vaccarello made his debut for Saint Laurent in 2016, the brand’s historic headquarters at Rue de Bellechasse was under renovation, setting the stage for a show steeped in audacious glamour. Eight years later, Vaccarello has returned to this iconic location, and while the scaffolding has long been cleared, the sense of architectural drama remains. This season’s presentation unfolded beneath a luminous golden oval structure that framed the open Parisian night sky—a contemporary halo for a collection that paid homage to the house’s storied past while striding confidently into the present.

The runway, painted a cobalt blue that revealed its brilliance under glancing lights (and a few raindrops), seemed a metaphor for the collection itself: bold, unapologetic, and deeply rooted in the DNA of Yves Saint Laurent. Vaccarello’s vision this season was both personal and reverential, drawing directly from the founder’s own style, as well as his philosophy of dressing women with an eye for power, elegance, and sensuality.

Power Dressing, Reimagined

Masculine tailoring has long been a hallmark of Saint Laurent, and Vaccarello’s Spring 2025 offering refined and expanded on this tradition. Double-breasted jackets, impeccably cut in deep anthracite, plum, and classic black, glided down the runway with an ease that belied their meticulous construction. Wide-leg trousers, paired with crisp shirts and wide ties, evoked a sense of control and strength. This was no mere revival of le smoking; it was a redefinition of the uniform for a modern era of empowerment.

Oversized greatcoats and leather aviator jackets added an edge of insouciance to the looks, while thick-framed glasses and gold bangles nodded to Saint Laurent’s own iconic style. Vaccarello described this collection as a response to an interview in which Yves once remarked that his ideal woman was, in essence, himself. “It’s about dressing women with a kind of discipline,” Vaccarello explained backstage. “It’s power, but with precision—a sense of control.”

A Delicate Transition

As the show progressed, it softened—gracefully pivoting from sharp suiting to a celebration of feminine fluidity. The transition began with pajama-inspired dressing in opulent brocade and damask, long tunics cinched with belts over flowing trousers. Accessories remained bold, with cascading necklaces and gleaming bangles channeling the effortless opulence of YSL muse Loulou de la Falaise.

Brocade and lace evening looks followed, with cropped jackets and diaphanous blouses paired with narrow skirts in electrifying shades of hot pink, daffodil yellow, and kingfisher blue. These pieces, while unabashedly glamorous, retained an air of nonchalance—models sauntered down the runway with hands casually tucked in pockets, exuding confidence.

The Ultimate Party Girl

Vaccarello saved his most exuberant designs for last, with shimmering lurex mini dresses, tiered skirts, and bold lace details that seemed destined for the celebrity circuit. A finale of piano melodies replaced the thumping beats, allowing the audience to fully appreciate the intricate craftsmanship and celebratory spirit of the collection.

The nods to Saint Laurent’s past—Nan Kempner’s boho-chic allure, the 1970s Opium-era decadence, and Yves’s personal uniform—were all there, but this was not a mere retrospective. Vaccarello’s Spring 2025 collection was a celebration of legacy reimagined for today. It was a reminder that Saint Laurent, at its best, is not about nostalgia but about evolution—an embrace of bold individuality and timeless sophistication.

As the final model exited the stage, the golden oval overhead seemed to echo the night’s sentiment: Saint Laurent’s legacy is not a closed chapter but an infinite loop of reinvention. Vaccarello’s latest offering proves that, under his direction, the house is not just surviving the weight of its history—it is thriving.