Valentino Spring 2025: A New Dawn Under Alessandro Michele's Vision
The wait is over, and Valentino’s Spring 2025 collection under the visionary direction of Alessandro Michele has arrived. Following a year of speculation, excitement, and anticipation, Michele’s first full collection for the Roman house was nothing short of extraordinary. In a world where quiet luxury has become the norm, Michele's maximalist approach brought a refreshing burst of opulence and wonder that felt like a delightful escape into a world of fantasy.
Taking to the runway in Paris with his signature flair for drama and spectacle, Michele transformed the space into a poetic, almost ethereal environment. A venue that harkened back to a forgotten grand mansion, the show took place in an old, cavernous space that evoked a sense of discovery. Draped with sheets, armoires, and mirrors, it created an intimate and almost secretive atmosphere, a nod to the house’s rich history and a perfect backdrop for a show that was as much about emotional experience as it was about fashion.
Michele’s influence on Valentino is undeniably visible in his reimagining of the archives. He dived deep into the past, looking back at everything from the opulent 1980s to the delicate femininity of the 1960s. The result? A beautiful collage of influences that spoke to his impeccable ability to blend eras. It wasn’t just about nostalgia; it was about transformation—making the past feel intensely relevant to the present moment.
The collection was a testament to Michele’s unrivaled ability to create a world of extravagance while maintaining the elegance that Valentino is known for. The pieces were nothing short of cinematic: voluminous, billowy gowns, exquisite ruffles cascading from every corner, and delicate lace detailing that whispered of romance. Shades of red and fuchsia, emerald and cobalt, illuminated the runway, painting a scene of vibrant femininity. There were metallics that shone like a dream, embroidery so fine it felt almost ethereal, and geometric patterns that spoke of both modernity and old-world craftsmanship.
Each piece felt like an artwork, meticulously designed with a specific intention. Take, for example, the dazzling emerald-green gown adorned with beads and trimmed in luxurious fur—an instant showstopper. Or the navy blazer with a deep plunge, worn daringly with nothing underneath, cinched with a massive red bow. The juxtaposition of hard and soft, masculine and feminine, played out in every look, with a strong emphasis on unexpected contrasts.
But the real magic of the collection lies in its ability to balance such intricate details with an effortless sense of fluidity. Michele's signature approach to gender-fluid dressing was evident throughout, with pieces that blurred the lines of traditional masculinity and femininity. His commitment to inclusivity was clear: this wasn’t about making a statement for shock value, but about inviting everyone into his dreamlike world, one where beauty was the true protagonist.
The accessories were equally as sumptuous, amplifying the mood of the collection. Think towering feathered hats, delicate lace gloves, and block-heeled knee-high boots—each one adding a layer of drama to the already lavish looks. Bags were worn two at a time, from classic logo envelopes to whimsical cat-shaped clutches, their playful presence giving the collection a whimsical edge.
Michele’s work has always been about more than just clothes; it's about creating a narrative, an experience, and an atmosphere. This collection felt like an invitation to step into a fantasy world where joy and beauty were the only rules. The soundtrack—featuring an ambient piece titled Passacaglia della Vita—echoed these sentiments, with its message about finding joy amid the chaos of life. It felt like a promise: that beauty, in all its forms, can protect us from the grey of our everyday existence.
As the models made their final walk, the show culminated in a full-circle moment, with the 92-year-old Valentino Garavani himself watching via FaceTime as Alessandro Michele took his bow. A poignant gesture that spoke to the legacy of the brand, while simultaneously marking the beginning of a new chapter under Michele’s vision.
Valentino Spring 2025 wasn’t just a collection—it was a declaration. Alessandro Michele has firmly established his own voice at the helm of the house, one that balances elegance with boldness, history with the future, and opulence with wearability. This wasn’t just a return; it was a reawakening. Valentino is no longer just a name; it is a dream, and Michele is its dreamer.